Haute Couture A/W 2011-2012 - Tuesday, July 5

Day Two - Paris

Armani Privé

Giorgio Armani’s Privé collections have been regarded as the most beautiful Privé showcase ever. The collection was in honour of the courageous people of Japan, since Armani strongly supports relief work after its recent troubles.  

Armani included beautifully structured kimonos that were synced in the waist with patent leather belting. Armani’s popular two piece suits also featured in the Privé collection but this time the tailoring of the pants was sharp and the pants were cropped just above the ankle. The jackets also came in narrowly at the waits.

Philip Treacy featured heavily at the royal wedding and this week was a highlight on the Armani runway as Tracey worked his magic on headdresses created from paper and flowers inspired by origami.

Deterring from his usual appliqué of sequins Armani turned to painted silks and digitalised cherry blossoms and lotus flowers. Armani’s signature black palette was combined with Japan’s signature red and white plus spots of orange and pink.

This season Signor Armani’s eveningwear collection was exceptionally delicate and sexy.

 Grazie a lui per unaltra sfilata indimenticabile...

CHANEL

Karl Lagerfeld has effortlessly maintained Chanel's historical legacy over the years as he continues to follow Coco’s vision. Each of Lagerfeld’s collections has a story and on Tuesday evening he presented a story that was obviously a tribute to Mademoiselle Coco Chanel. Lagerfeld followed the lines of feminine sophistication but added a gothic element for modernity.

The setting was BEYOND perfect as the runway was transformed into a late night in Paris. Lagerfeld turned the Grand Palais into a dark and glistening street scene, with a neon-lit backdrop and a towering Chanel statue as the centrepiece. The runway’s bright lights gave the impression that it had just been raining.

 The theme of darkness continued through to the Haute Couture autumn/winter collection, as traditional Chanel suits paraded down the glimmering catwalk in black, white, gray, navy a touch of magenta. The hint of pink was like a breath of fresh air in the gothic collection.

 1905s double breasted coats were a feature, but they were dramatised with stiff tweed tailoring. The strict lines in the tunics, skirts and long dresses were practical and theatrical. Lagerfeld flawlessly integrated Swarovski embroidered fabric into his tailored suits, which glistened against the faux night sky. The elaborate evening gowns were donned with feathered chiffon, pleated silk and crystals, demonstrating the most delicate craftsmanship. The broad shoulders and nipped in waists was an enormous contradiction to the loose silhouettes, but the combination wasn't distracting at all. The random masculine suit was a nice androgynous inclusion as the heavy waist coat contrasted perfectly with the silk flared pants.

 

Chanel accessories are some of the most sought after style pieces in the world and this collection didn’t disappoint. Lagerfeld's Chanel girl mysteriously wore a tulle-lace veil over her smoky eyes. Suede boater hats with feather frills were accompanied by gloves, in sheer arm length and fingerless in leather. The classic Chanel style was evident in the leather footwear, as over-the-knee boots were refined with patent round toe finishing. The peep-toe stilettos were the most unique as blue torches were in the soles.

The finale white floor length silk gown floated down the catwalk – the virginal bride wore a white lace eye mask to highlight her distinction to the rest of the collection. Once again, the love affair of Paris and fashion was showcased through Lagerfeld’s seductive Chanel Haute Couture. After all, Mademoiselle Coco was watching over the parade!!

Merci beaucoup Monsieur Lagerfeld!!

A demain...