Day One - Paris
Christian Dior
The biggest show of the season generated the most media attention because for the first time in 15 years Christian Dior was not overseen by John Galliano. Galliano’s successor Bill Gaytten took his first bow as creative director of Christian Dior at the couture show on Monday night in Paris. The ingenious label named Gaytten creative director of the John Galliano label just last week, after Gaytten worked alongside the designer for the past 23 years at both Galliano and Dior. Gaytten was supported by Susanna Venegas during his first runway at Dior.
“It was girly, it had a sharp edge at the beginning with graphic prints and lots of different themes – cutting and layering like the inside of a shell,” said Vogue UK fashion director Lucinda Chambers after the show, referring to the rah-rah petal skirts and the absence of fur – unusual for an autumn/winter 2011-12 collection.
“It was girly, it had a sharp edge at the beginning with graphic prints and lots of different themes – cutting and layering like the inside of a shell,” said Vogue UK fashion director Lucinda Chambers after the show, referring to the rah-rah petal skirts and the absence of fur – unusual for an autumn/winter 2011-12 collection.
Dior’s couture signature was visible in Gaytten’s use of a pastel palette, huge ball and bustier dresses. In the finale Karlie Kloss wore a gigantic ball gown and took on a very Pierrot persona. However, the change in head designer is only the beginning of the unstable state of Dior during this Couture season, as the collection was not well received by the critics who were expecting more from Dior.
“Every house needs a point of view and it has to come from the designer – sadly that’s what was lacking in today’s show,” went on Lucinda.
Suzy Menkes (International Herald Tribune) told Vogue it was Galliano’s absence that was most strongly present in the collection. “Regardless of charges that he was sozzled with drink, off-his-head on pills or wildly ranting, John Galliano brought to the house a finesse and exquisite lightness that, with his departure, has blown away like confetti in the wind,” she said. “This carnival of a show looked like a bunch of partygoers had done a witty, wacky take on Dior extravaganzas.”
Asked backstage by the Cathy Horyn (New York Times) about the collection, Gaytten had said it was time to do something more modern at Dior. When asked if he wanted the creative director job, he said, “Yeah, I do,” and added, “I’m not a fool.”
“Every house needs a point of view and it has to come from the designer – sadly that’s what was lacking in today’s show,” went on Lucinda.
Suzy Menkes (International Herald Tribune) told Vogue it was Galliano’s absence that was most strongly present in the collection. “Regardless of charges that he was sozzled with drink, off-his-head on pills or wildly ranting, John Galliano brought to the house a finesse and exquisite lightness that, with his departure, has blown away like confetti in the wind,” she said. “This carnival of a show looked like a bunch of partygoers had done a witty, wacky take on Dior extravaganzas.”
Asked backstage by the Cathy Horyn (New York Times) about the collection, Gaytten had said it was time to do something more modern at Dior. When asked if he wanted the creative director job, he said, “Yeah, I do,” and added, “I’m not a fool.”
I think we should give Gaytten time as he is obviously BEYOND talented. Many, as do I, maintain a strong association between Dior and Galliano but in life nothing stays the same and we should accept that this is the “new” look of Dior. My favourite look that was obviously the "new" Dior was the stunning maxi dresses in stunning prints.
Giambattista Valli
As an invited guest of Chambre Syndicale, Giambattista Valli presented his first couture collection alongside eight other designers including Alexis Mabille, Alexandre Vauthier, Bouchra Jarrar, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Maxime Simoens and Iris Van Herpen.
“It was very true to his sort of ready-to-wear feeling, because it always has that couture element which made it fit together seamlessly,” said Vogue UK’s Alexandra Shulman after the show.
“It was very true to his sort of ready-to-wear feeling, because it always has that couture element which made it fit together seamlessly,” said Vogue UK’s Alexandra Shulman after the show.
Feminine cocktail silhouettes in black and white sheer fabrics opened the show. As the colour palette introduced tones of coral, cream and read shoulders began to inflate and a feathered effect appeared. “He is the master of the cocktail dress,” said Shulman.
The insertion of animal prints and furs was a nice break in the collection before the billowing chiffon gowns and capes floated down the runway. The difference between the black veiled sleek gown and a coral cocoon shaped dress was BEYOND extreme but it worked somehow...
“I thought it was beautiful, and terribly like what he does for ready-to-wear. It’s absolutely what people want – it will please Valentino and Dior clients,” added Shulman.
For Valli’s first outing as a couturier it was a job well done and I look forward to what is to come from the clever designer.
Au revoir to day une of Haute Couture from Paris...
A demain!
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